Trouble With Toast
The Iberian Pig
Leave a Comment
I travel a fair amount for work, and when I leave for more than a day or two, I do the good wifely thing and cook some meals for my husband to eat while I’m away. While he certainly appreciates my efforts (let’s face it, otherwise, he’d be eating fast food for every meal–or just not eating), he is happy to STOP eating out of Tupperware containers when I return. After one of my recent homecomings, we decided to go on a date and try the new Iberian Pig in Decatur. I had heard some decent buzz about it, and I certainly enjoy Spanish food (having lived in Spain for a spell in college), but I was a little wary due to the fact that Atlanta has not really sustained an authentic, successful Spanish restaurant.
My first impression of the restaurant, other than “Holy crap, it is CROWDED in here,” was that I liked the space and the feel of the interior. There is a lot of rich wood and some interesting furniture pieces, but nothing that obnoxiously screams Spain. I found it tasteful and comfortable, if slightly lacking in “personalidad.” The entrance/bar area is pretty tight, but we found a bit of space by the host stand and a very friendly bartender/manager came and took our cocktail order. I must say, it was nice to have someone come to us, rather than having to lean over the people who were actually dining at the bar in order to get a pre-dinner libation. We had a little bit of an issue with the hostess (she pronounced my name horribly wrong, causing us to wait an additional 10-15 minutes to be seated, after we’d already had to wait for our reservation), but we finally wound up at a cozy table toward the rear of the restaurant.
We wanted to think about strategy, so we ordered the obvious first: a plate of meat and cheese. We opted for manchego, idiazabal, and the famous jamon iberico for which the restaurant is named. The portions were fair for the prices, and the plate came with some bread (already “seasoned” with a tasty olive oil), sausage, and olives. It also came with a sauce that turned out to be espresso aioli, but it truthfully reminded me of honey mustard more than anything else. We didn’t need it, since the meat and cheese selections were delicious on their own. In particular, the jamon iberico was buttery, tender, and rich, with an occasional, well-placed wallop of saltiness. When combined with my lovely glass of Rioja, that ham transported me right back to Madrid. We also ordered some tapanade (which came on the same crusty bread), but I’m not an olive lover so it wasn’t my favorite.
The menu has a LOT going on, and it was hard for us to choose where to go from there. We decided to stick with the smaller plates (even though some of the “entrees” looked intriguing), and our next round included a pork belly special and the stuffed piquillo peppers. I cannot exactly remember the presentation of the former, but there were some thinly-sliced apples and a reduction sauce. The flavors were nice, especially when you got a bit of everything all in one bite, but I found the meat to be somewhat overcooked. The peppers were very tasty (filled with delicious soft cheeses) and reminded me a great deal of dishes I ate in Spain.
Despite being “tapas,” the portions were quite large. We found ourselves nearing full capacity, but I really wanted to see if the churros were like the ones I would devour after dancing the night away at a Madrid discoteca. The pastries were hot and fresh, and they were correctly crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Unfortunately, they were VERY heavily dusted with cinnamon, to the point that I couldn’t taste anything else. Additionally, the thick chocolate that accompanied the churros, while authentic in terms of texture, had a spicy, chili-flavored element that again masked the comforting taste of the fried dough itself. With a lighter hand, the dessert would have been perfectly successful.
I found the prices to be reasonable and the wine list to be worthwhile, though I will say that the beer and cocktail offerings didn’t really speak to us. Service was good in the beginning, but as our waiter got busier, he grew less and less attentive and we had to flag him down fairly frequently. The owner came by to say hello, and he seems genuinely enthusiastic about what he’s trying to do. My final (for now) verdict? I would like to return to the Iberian Pig, though I will temper my expectations somewhat when I do. I think if you go with a hankering for truly authentic Spanish cuisine, you’ll be a little disappointed. However, if you are openminded, and if the restaurant can work out some of its service and flow issues, then there are many good meals to be had.
Be Like the Bluebird
3 Comments
Many weekends, my hubby and I go out for breakfast. Highland Bakery is always a favorite, as we can bring the pup and eat outdoors (and they have a very respectable eggs Benedict and some darn good home fries). Gato Bizco is also a winner, with its yummy buttery biscuits and HUGE omelets. During a recent weekend, however, Jason convinced me to try something new. That’s how we found ourselves at Ria’s Bluebird on a sunny Sunday morning.
We got there around 11 AM, and there was a sizeable group waiting outside. It was a beautiful day, though, so the 45-minute wait was much more pleasant than I anticipated. As we were perusing the menu, I noticed that Ria’s claimed to have the “world’s best pancakes” (a claim that was further authenticated by the New York Times, apparently). Anytime a restaurant (or any other business, for that matter) says that it has the best of something, I am immediately skeptical. It is bold to claim to be superlative in ANY sense, so I’m always waiting for the letdown. Hey, I can’t be an optimist ALL the time.
Once we were seated at the bar, we decided on a plan of attack. Jason would order “today’s omelette” (which was filled with tomatoes and blue cheese) and I would order the breakfast burrito (with eggs, black beans, salsa verde, and sour cream), and then we would split a short stack of the pancakes with caramelized bananas. Hey, don’t judge, waiting made us hungry. Because of the blue cheese component, I wouldn’t touch Jason’s omelette, but he scarfed it down and said it was tasty. The burrito was HUGE and quite good, with the beans being cooked nicely and the salsa having a very refreshing flavor (though it could have used a bit more kick for my liking). Opinions were split on the accompanying biscuits–Jason really liked them, but they were definitely not my style (these were more like bread or cake than true biscuits).
Then…there were the pancakes. As skeptical as I was, and as much as I wanted to prove Ria’s menu (and the NYT) wrong, I have to eat crow and tell the truth. These pancakes were absolutely, positively, without fail THE BEST I HAVE EVER HAD. Period, end of story. The pancakes themselves were delicately sweet but not too sugary, so the addition of maple syrup and caramelized bananas was decadent without being cloying. The part that amazed me more, though, was the texture. The pancakes were so light and so fluffy that I asked our server in amazement, “How do they MAKE them like that???” Utterly fabulous, and worth every sinful calorie.
Service was fine, though it was very busy so there wasn’t as much checking in as I’d usually prefer. Prices were in line with other breakfasts in the area. The menu is somewhat small, but with those pancakes on the list of available items, I’m not sure you need a litany of other choices. The wait was really the only downside, so I wonder if taking some pancakes to go would be a decent option if one was really starving. Overall, I’d say our first trip to Ria’s was a sweet success, and I will continue to dream about those pancakes until I can plan a return trip.
Grindhouse Burgers: I Can Haz Franchise? Kthxbai!
Leave a Comment
Every time my sister and her fiance come to the East Coast, they can’t wait to get to Five Guys. I have never understood this. Five Guys is just okay. I find other burger chains (In ‘N Out and Whataburger come immediately to mind) to be vastly superior. And now, Five Guys has even more competition in the Atlanta area with the opening of Grindhouse Killer Burgers in the Sweet Auburn Market.
My husband and I decided to try Grindhouse in celebration of our doggie passing the Canine Good Citizen test (truthfully, we should have given the DOG a hamburger, since he did all of the hard work, but he seemed to be content with a bone and a belly rub). We showed up at the market at about 1 PM, and there was a nice line in front of the counter. We waited. And waited. And waited some more. It probably took about 20 minutes to actually get to the register to order, which was due in equal part to a large to-go order and a VERY slow and confused cashier. Hopefully such service issues will be worked out quickly.
The menu is set up so that you can order a la carte or go with certain pre-fab combos called burger “styles.” Single-patty styles range from $4.99 to $6.25, doubles range from $6.99 to $8.25, and adding sides/drinks generally runs $2.50 or $3.00. The a la carte starting prices for singles and doubles are $3.99 and $5.99 respectively, but their relative cheapness is deceptive once you start adding toppings and extras. So, hubby and I each went for a different “style” combo. I opted for the traditional Grindhouse style (single), which had lettuce, sauteed onions, pickles, American cheese, and Grindhouse sauce (which I found very similar to the sauce on the In ‘N Out Animal Style). For my side, I started with the basics–fries. Jason went with the single Cowboy style, with bacon, fried onion strings, cheddar cheese, and BBQ sauce, and he chose the sweet potato chips for his side.
In terms of seating…well, there isn’t much. There’s a counter that surrounds the relatively small space, and in an ideal world, people wouldn’t sit there until they had ordered their food (so that the cycle would basically work itself out). However, there was a large and inconsiderate group of girls who were gathering for some sort of celebration, and they draped their gifts and raincoats and umbrellas all over about 6 of the maybe 16-20 seats. Luckily, after waiting for a few more minutes, we found two seats together, and our food found us shortly after that.
The crinkle-cut fries were hot and well-seasoned, if a bit pedestrian and unexciting. The burger, however? AWESOME. The bun was of the potato variety, and it was simultaneously fluffy and sturdy (being toasted helped with the latter). The meat was very tasty and stood up flavor-wise to the cheese and the sauce. The ingredients tasted fresh, and the whole package was satisfyingly messy without spilling all over my lap. Jason’s burger was similarly yummy, though I felt like his stronger toppings overpowered the meat just a bit. The sweet potato chips were good, though I felt like they needed a tad more salt.
Next time, I will skip the side item and get a double burger and a milkshake. In fact, when the owner came over to ask us if we wanted refills, I said, “Yes, please…of my burger.” They’re not small, but they could definitely be bigger, especially if you work up an appetite waiting in line. All in all, though, I think Grindhouse is a wonderful addition to the Sweet Auburn area and a great, local alternative to the myriad of fast food burgers out there.
Tomo Arigato, Mister Naito
Leave a Comment
When my sister asked me what I wanted in terms of a bachelorette party, I knew the answer right away. “I want sushi!” I begged. “No penis paraphernalia, no veils, no creepy bar games, no drunken idiocy–just a nice sushi dinner with my sis, followed by classy cocktails with a small group of girlfriends.” But where to get sushi worthy of my wedding weekend? Clearly, not just anyplace would do, so I asked the expert (this very knowledgeable gentleman), and my sister and I wound up at Tomo.
The place itself is somewhat unassuming, lodged in the middle of a Kroger shopping center off Cobb Parkway. The interior decor, however, is subtle and soothing (I forgot very quickly that we were at a strip mall). We sat at the sushi bar, which is always my preference, and settled in for a feast. We ordered wine, and I must say that the pours were quite generous. The beverage selections were also fairly varied, which is good for someone like me who doesn’t really dig sake (blasphemy, I know).
Sis and I were debating appetizers when we heard one of the chefs say that there was only one diver scallop left. Our ears perked up and we practically yelled, “DIBS!!!” A few moments later, we had a beautiful plate of live scallop sashimi in front of us, served in its own lovely shell and garnished with little dots of hot sauce and flecks of micro cilantro. It was somehow light and rich at the same time, and absolute perfection in terms of presentation. Fantastic.
For our entree, we decided to share some sashimi and a couple of sushi rolls. The dinner sashimi platter included shrimp, scallops, tuna, salmon, and yellowtail belly, and it was all extremely fresh and well-presented. In terms of rolls, we kept it pretty simple and opted for eel and cucumber (my absolute favorite) and yellowtail and scallion, both of which were really good. The rice was the perfect stickiness, and the ingredients were top-notch. When the HUGE plate of food came out initially, we thought we’d be there all night…but we were finished with all of the deliciousness far sooner than we anticipated. Funny how that works.
I was contemplating ordering some uni for “dessert,” because let’s face it, dessert at most sushi restaurants leaves something to be desired. I’d much rather have more raw fish than eat one more bowl of green tea ice cream, ya know? But Chef Naito assured us that dessert at his restaurant was not to be missed (even though he also said that the uni was a great choice as well). We trusted him and told him to pick his two best desserts for us, so we ended up with the “chocolate plant” and the “mango sunny-side up.” The former was a rich, decadent chocolate creation that was thicker than a mousse but every bit as smooth and velvety. It was in a little glass, covered in some crushed chocolate that was meant to look like dirt, and there was a beautiful sprig of fresh mint that appeared just like it was growing out of the dish. It reminded me of a grown-up version of a “dirt dessert,” with gummy worms and Oreos. Ah, childhood. The mango dessert…well, the picture below is better than any description I could offer.
The “egg white” was actually a coconut panna cotta, the “yolk” was a mango jelly, and the “bacon” was crepe strips. Very creative, and very tasty.
I cannot wait for another excuse to go to Tomo. All of that food was about $100 (before tip), so it’s not everyday sushi, but it is definitely worth the wait and the price tag. Thanks to Chef Naito and my sissy for a wonderful dinner.
Alon’s: Pricey, but Pretty
Leave a Comment
On our way back from doggie obedience class this past Saturday, Jason and I were hungry for lunch but not interested in our usual Subway (the limited options of this diet are starting to get to me). I decided that it would be the perfect time to try Alon’s, a bakery/restaurant I’d heard about for quite some time. Nestled in the Morningside neighborhood (past Virginia Highlands), Alon’s sells a variety of salads, sandwiches, and prepared foods that you can eat there or take to-go. They also offer various breads, cheese, chocolates, and gift baskets. Think of a gourmet market (like Dean & Deluca or something), but then make it local, and you’ll have the vibe of Alon’s.
I ordered a portobello sandwich, which came on rosemary focaccia with spinach, swiss cheese, and Thai basil pesto. Jason opted for the French Connection salad (field greens, Anjou pears, spiced pecans, and a port vinaigrette) with grilled chicken. We also added a small container of curried Israeli couscous, which had peppers, sun dried tomatoes, and apricots. We also grabbed a Diet Dr. Brown’s cream soda (my fave) and a Pellegrino to drink. The staff was friendly and efficient, despite the place being packed with people (the space is a bit cramped, and the only seating is outdoors).
The first thing we noticed was that the portions were larger than anticipated. My sandwich was chock full of shroomy goodness, and there was no shortage of spinach or cheese. The bread was very fresh and tasty, the ingredients were high quality, and the flavors worked well together. My only complaint was that I would have preferred a hot version–the cold spinach took on a bit of a slimy consistency that wasn’t the most appealing. Jason’s salad was absolutely lovely, with a healthy helping of grilled chicken on top. The pears were crisp and refreshing, and the pecans contributed a spicy crunch, but my favorite part of the dish was the delicious dressing. The couscous salad was good, but not great–it was a bit too sweet for my liking.
Our lunch cost just over $25, which is definitely on the higher side of what I prefer to pay for sandwiches and salads. Next time, we’ll skip the fancy drinks and bring our own bottled water, and we’ll know not to order a side dish (we were too full to really enjoy it anyway). We’ll definitely be back, though, as Alon’s is a nice change of pace from standard lunch fare.
What to order at the Porter
Leave a Comment
First, sorry for the lapse in posting. Triathlons, work, dog training, wedding planning, blah blah blah.
Second, I am oh so pleased with myself for coming up with a quasi-rhyming post title. I may or may not have giggled out loud as I typed it.
Moving on…
Jason had been bugging me to try the Porter Beer Bar (in Little Five Points) for quite some time, but I kept looking at the food menu and having a “meh” kind of reaction. Their beer selection is HUGE, though, and last Friday evening was one of those times when beer needs definitely trumped everything else. We got there around 7:30 PM, and I anticipated a long wait, but the only part of the place that was packed was the patio. We grabbed two seats at the large bar and were helped immediately by the bartenders (who were knowledgeable but not particularly friendly). My first beer was a He’Brew Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A., a fantastically hoppy beer that was brewed in honor of the late Lenny Bruce. Jason opted for a Moylan’s Hopsickle, which both of us found a little too sweet, particularly on the nose.
We were starving, so we ordered an appetizer right away–one of the specials, goat cheese fritters, with cracked black pepper and clover honey. This really was a delicious dish, with a crisp, non-greasy coating over the soft cheese filling. There was a wonderful flavor duel between the spice of the pepper and the sweetness of the honey. They smelled and looked so good that our neighbors at the bar offered their assistance in cleaning the plate. A clearly unnecessary gesture.
For our meals, I ordered the homemade black bean and quinoa burger, and Jason opted for the Reuben. Both came with HUGE piles of herbed fries, which smelled more flavorful than they actually were. They were fried beautifully, however, and they had a great non-greasy crunch. My black bean burger had good flavor, but the texture was very soggy and the patty, bun, and toppings all sort of mushed together unappealingly. The pickled red onions that came on the burger tasted great–but the sandwich needed crunch, so I feel like raw red onions would have been a better choice. I could only finish half the burger and maybe a third of the fries before I was stuffed; I blame that partially on the obscenely large portions and partially on the Weyerbacher Double Simcoe IPA that I was guzzling while trying to eat.
All in all, I think we’ll go back to the Porter–after all, their beer selection is the best in the neighborhood. If we’re hungry next time, I think we’ll just stick with appetizers and smaller noshes.
A Swift kick in the tastebuds
2 Comments
Last Friday was my birthday, which of course meant LOTS of celebratory eating. There was a free burger from the Vortex, some late-night drunk food at Taco Cabana (after the worst games of bowling I’ve ever had), and a delicious meal at my parents’ house that included fried shrimp, twice-baked potatoes, and pickled cucumbers. But before any of that, my fiance took me to a lovely dinner at 4th & Swift in the Old Fourth Ward.
The space is very similar to others in the area–in other words, it is a lofty/industrial look with lots of exposed brick and piping and high ceilings. There’s a fair amount of patio seating, which was definitely appealing, but we stuck with our usual M.O. and sat at the bar. The signature cocktails are really interesting, but the one I wanted involved house-infused pineapple vodka, and it wasn’t finished infusing quite yet. So, I had a nice glass of cava instead. Jason had a fruity cocktail that involved raspberry vodka and blackberry liqueur (he liked it, but I found it a little too sweet for an opening drink).
While we sipped, we muched on the fried pickles with red chile mayo. What a tasty treat! The pickles were piping hot and nicely fried, and the sauce provided a good kick. We were also presented with a bread basket, which contained delicious cheddar biscuits and a house-made lavash. They would have kept the bread coming all night long, but we finally had to ask them to stop–the carby goodies were excellent, but we wanted to save room.
There were two soups available, so rather than choose between them, we decided to try both. One, from the “Market” menu, was a Vidalia onion soup with pancetta and watercress oil. The other was a roasted garlic and cauliflower soup, with crawfish and braised celery. The former had a great texture, but unless you got a big chunk of the pancetta, the overall flavor was way too sweet. Don’t get me wrong, I know that Vidalias are naturally sugary, but the soup needed a little spice or kick or something in order to counteract that aggressive sweetness. The cauliflower soup was absolutely fantastic, and held up surprisingly well to the strong flavor of the celery (which still added a nice crunch, even though it was braised and mellowed).
Next, Jason opted for the chicken livers, and I ordered “The Schnitzel” from the bar menu. I am not really a huge fan of livers, so I anticipated that I wouldn’t really enjoy the dish–and I didn’t. Brains and glands are great for me, but the liver/kidney/heart family just reminds me of sucking on a penny, and I have a high sensitivity level for that metallic, organy taste. Jason liked their flavor, but he wished they would have turned out crispier (though they were served with little toasts, so there was an element of crunch to the dish). The schnitzel, on the other hand, had lots of yummy elements. The veal was nice and thin, and the breading was tasty, but I did feel like that part of the dish needed more salt. The over-easy egg on top of the meat did add a bit of a saline punch, so when the bites overlapped, things tasted more balanced. The herb spaetzle was tender and well-seasoned, and the two different kinds of apples (one was a sweeter sauce, and the other was more of a spicy relish) added some really interesting layers of flavor.
I was pretty full, but I wanted to take a look at the dessert menu, just to see what was available. When I saw “doughnut holes,” it was all over–I had to have them. There were three light, fluffy, steaming hot puffs of dough that arrived in front of me, each sitting atop a different sauce. The Boston Cream was my definite favorite, causing me to abandon all class and use my finger to sop up what the pastry missed. The chocolate and raspberry sauces were also very good. I told the bartender that if they were open for breakfast, I’d eat a dozen of those doughnuts every morning and not think twice about it. Instead of eating dessert, Jason indulged in a port flight (three 2 oz. pours), which he had never seen at a restaurant before and which he very much enjoyed.
Service was very friendly and knowledgeable–we were helped by a number of people, including the bartender, the manager, and a couple of food runners, and they were all wonderful. We had a LOT of food (as you can clearly tell), and Jason had a beer in addition to the cocktail and port, and the total tab was right at $100. I really feel like 4th & Swift is an incredible value for that price, and we’ll definitely be back to see what else Chef Swift and his staff have up their sleeves.
Pizza wars
7 Comments
Here in Atlanta, we take our food pretty seriously. We line up at 4:30 PM to get a taste of Chef Scott Peacock’s world-famous fried chicken. We beam with pride when our mighty burgers (from Ann’s Snack Bar or the Vortex) are featured in the national media. We have very strong personal feelings about where to get the best “meat and three.” And now, we must choose sides in the war of the Neopolitan pizza.
The fiery battle between Fritti (in Inman Park) and Varasano’s (newly opened in Buckhead) was stoked by Mr. Varasano himself, who not only claimed to be “the creator of the internet’s #1 pizza recipe,” but also ruffled some feathers when he referred to Fritti’s pizza as “tasteless cardboard.” Now that he has opened up shop in town, my mission was clear: taste both pizzas, and report back with findings. Lather, rinse, repeat.
First, Fritti. We visited on a Friday night while one of my DC girlfriends was in town, and we showed up around 8 PM. There was a short wait for a table, so we enjoyed a couple of rounds in the bar area. There were plenty of beers and wines to choose from, which always makes me happy. We were seated outside, which allowed us to enjoy the beautiful evening and the sights and sounds of Highland Avenue. So far, so good! The menu is quite extensive, so after some debate, we ordered the arancini (risotto croquettes, these with sausage) and the bresaola (thin-sliced beef with arugula and parm) as appetizers. The arancini were perfectly fried and pratically grease-less, but they were a bit bland overall. Perhaps some more salt or some kickier fillings would be good. The bresaola was nice and balanced, and a very light and tasty start to the meal.
On to the pizza! I ordered the calamari fritti pizza, which contained (duh) fried calamari, fresh tomatoes, and mozzarella. My friend had a pizza with lamb, mint, red onion, and mozzarella, and fiance ordered the salame piccante (with spicy salami and black olives). I really loved my pie–the toppings were flavorful and high-quality, the sauce had a nice sweetness, and the crust had the right amount of chewiness and crunch. There was some char present, but it didn’t overpower all of the other flavors. The pizza did get a bit soggy towards the middle, but that upset my dining companions far more than it did me (after all, I was born in NY, so properly folding a slice is in my DNA). Service was prompt and very friendly, and I definitely liked the scene.
A week later, we headed to Varasano’s to see if it was worth the hype. This time it was just Jason and me, and we again chose to sit out on the patio. Sadly, Buckhead just isn’t as interesting to look at–but that’s not the restaurant’s fault. What IS the restaurant’s fault is that the options–in terms of both beverages and food–are a bit limited. The only appetizers available were three different kinds of salads and a cured meat platter. None of those really spoke to me, so we passed on the first course altogether. In terms of drinks, there was a small selection of wine and a fairly decent bottled beer roster, but other than a glass of prosecco (which always hits the spot), I really didn’t get excited about anything on the list.
The options for pizzas were somewhat limited as well, so I ordered a classic: the margherita pizza (with an upgrade to buffalo mozzarella). My fiance went for the salumi (cured meat, mozzarella, and spiced olives). The toppings were delicious, and the crust actually stayed crispy throughout the pie. BUT, unfortunately, the char that accompanied that crisp crust was a very overpowering flavor. I actually lost a lot of the taste of the mozzarella due to the bitter bite of the char. Even though the flavors of Jason’s cured meats were more robust and could stand up to the char, he agreed that it was a little too much for his liking as well. Service was very good–the restaurant almost seemed overstaffed, as many different people came to check in on us at various times throughout our brief meal (which is better than the alternative, don’t get me wrong). I really wanted to try the Italian doughnuts, but I was too full to justify them.
Since service and pricing were so similar, the pizza stands as the sole point of comparison (which is probably how it should be). So where did I come out in the great ‘za debate?
I’m definitely in the Fritti camp.
Certainly, Varasano’s pizza was tasty. And perhaps it truly was a perfect example of real Neopolitan pizza (I wouldn’t know). But, between the heaviness of the char and the surprisingly small number of choices, I left Varasano’s with much less of a desire to return than I did when I left Fritti.
So, chalk one up for Fritti–I’ll definitely be back for more.
I’ll Pass on Repast
2 Comments
Don’t you hate it when an otherwise promising evening ends up in disappointment? Maybe it’s because your blind date, while smokin’ hot, turned out to be mind-numbingly boring. Maybe it’s because the hip new club you got passes to wound up being nothing more than a skeezy cougar hunting ground. Maybe it’s because you took your new girlfriend on the best date ever, and she STILL didn’t put out. In my case, it was because Repast (a restaurant in the Old Fourth Ward) had promise when we entered and delivered disappointment as we left.
We arrived a little early for a cocktail and made our way to the small bar. Drinks before dinner were fantastic–I had something with sparkling wine and yuzu sorbet in it, and the flavors changed with every sip as the sorbet melted. Genius. Jason had something very gingery that I didn’t care for, but he seemed to enjoy it. As we were led to our table, we commented about how much we enjoyed the space.
For a starter, I had the warm spinach and wild mushroom salad. It really was tasty, with the flavors of bacon, apples, mustard, and mushrooms all playing quite nicely together. The salad boasted a poached egg, which is part of why I ordered it, but it actually came with a fried egg (over easy). It still added a nice richness to the salad, but it also added extra oiliness. I would have loved to sop up the egg yolk with some good bread, but that is something that is NOT found at Repast. The “Wonderbread” was soft and fresh, but it didn’t have any interesting texture or flavor, and it wouldn’t have stood up to any sopping. Jason had octopus carpaccio, which I tasted and felt rather “meh” about–but, then again, I’m not a huge fan of octopus to begin with (I find it to be very tough).
I went with the tuna burger for my entree, cooked rare. It was actually delicious, and clearly made with quality tuna. The bun was a little greasy, so I ended up ditching it halfway through. The onion rings and fries were yummy (and NOT greasy), but the sauces that accompanied them were mediocre at best. The “aioli” tasted like plain mayo, the ketchup was bland, and the wasabi mayo was WAY too spicy for me. Jason ordered a chorizo-crusted pork chop, which was, to the restaurant’s credit, cooked very nicely so it was moist and tender. The sides that came with it (one was some sort of squash gratin) were utterly forgettable.
We tried three desserts (not full ones, as a nice feature of the menu is that you can do a dessert tasting): the banana pecan bread pudding, which I really enjoyed, the lemon chiffon, which had good flavor but bad texture, and the dark chocolate terrine, which was good. Service was a little unpredictable; sometimes three separate people would ask us if we needed anything, and sometimes we were left alone for long stretches. Beer and wine lists didn’t really jazz me (not by the glass, anyway), and the prices were a bit steep. Actually, I found the prices to be a bit steep for everything, including the food. Had we not had a gift certificate, the meal would have been too expensive for just a random Friday date night.
If we had left with only the above information, I probably would have still had a decent impression of Repast. However, as we were waiting to settle up, we noticed some troubling disparate treatment. Even though we had not received an amuse bouche (which we found odd, given that we had read and heard about them from other diners), the table next to us was being served one. Additionally, the chef/owner came out and visited with a number of guests (including the ones seated next to us), but he didn’t check in with everyone in the dining room (including us). And it’s a small dining room. My fiance was so upset that he tried to talk to the owner, but he disappeared. He sent an email the next day, outlining why he felt like he had been snubbed, but never received any response of any kind. I can assure you that we didn’t want any freebies–just an acknowledgement of our feedback and some kind of statement confirming our value as customers. But we got nada.
I still feel pretty whiny writing this up, but the more I thought about things, the more the situation bothered me. I don’t expect perfection, but in this day and age, and in this economic climate, diners who are paying $20-$30 for an entree should expect to feel welcome. A favorite dining critic of mine always says that less-than-stellar food can be overlooked if the service/experience is excellent, but no amount of culinary wowing can overcome poor interpersonal interactions. After dining at Repast, I really think he’s right.
The French Laundry: Simplicity, Perfected
12 Comments
I knew that the culinary highlight of my California trip would be my dinner (with Jason, my sister, and Mr. Barzelay) at Thomas Keller’s world-reknowned restaurant. But I had been looking forward to the meal at The French Laundry ever since we scored reservations (two months prior), and I had built it up so much in my head that I figured it would NEVER live up to my lofty expectations.
Why I doubted, I will never know.
The French Laundry was perfection in almost every way imaginable. It was worth the hype (and, clearly, there is a lot of it). It was worth the dollar signs (and, clearly, there are a lot of them). It was worth the transcontinental flight, and the hour-long drive from San Francisco to Yountville. It was worth snaking into my sleekest, classiest dress, even though I knew I’d be busting at its seams by night’s end. It was, without a doubt, the most amazing and complete dining experience of my life. Yet, somehow, magically, there was no pretention to be found within its hallowed walls. Here is the menu I enjoyed, with my thoughts about each dish:
Before the official start of the meal, there were two amuses: a gougere (warm pastry filled with cheese) and the signature “cornets” of salmon tartare and sweet red onion creme fraiche. The former were light, tasty, and a warm and inviting start to our four-hour dining adventure. The latter were mind-blowingly delicate, yet intensely flavorful. If there had been any questions before, they instantly evaporated–we knew we were in for a real treat.
“Oysters and Pearls”–”Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and California Sturgeon Caviar. This is another Keller signature, and there’s a reason why–this dish is out of this world. Somehow, the saltiness of the oysters and the caviar combine with the buttery sabayon to transport you to a beautiful French seascape. No ingredient overpowered the dish, which is quite something considering that two of the components are oysters and caviar. Magnificent.
Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm–Cucumber, Radish, Cilantro and Avocado Puree. Compared with the foie gras that was also available for this course (for a $30 upcharge), this salad may seem unremarkable. However, I found it really satisfying and interesting and balanced, particularly each time I got a burst of flavor from a cilantro shoot. The avocado puree was also impressive in its smoothness and intensity.
I believe it was during the salad/foie course that we experienced the first pass of the bread service. The tray was enormous and full of many lovely carby varieties, including mini-baguettes, sourdough, multigrain, and ciabatta. I personally tried the sourdough and the multigrain, and they were both incredible (as were the other choices, according to the peanut gallery). The breads were made even more special and delicious by the availability of salted and unsalted butter, both from small, artisan dairies, and both served at the appropriate temperature.
“Tartare” of Japanese Bluefin Tuna–Sacramento Delta Asparagus, Navel Orange, Perilla and White Sesame. This was one big bowl of concentrated flavor. The tuna practically melted in my mouth, and was really fishy…in a good way. Because it was so rich and velvety, the oranges provided a welcomed acidic punch. The asparagus and sesame had a touch of bitterness, so the entire course was really well-rounded.
“Beets and Leeks”–Maine Lobster Tail “Pochee au Beurre Doux” with King Richard Leeks, “Pommes Maxim’s” and Red Beet Essence. Jesus H. Christ on a cracker, this course was INCREDIBLE. I am still thinking about it, salivating with joy each time I remember the tender, butter-poached lobster…the sweet and oniony leeks (which almost had a consistency like dip)…the beet essence that was exactly that…and the pomme that was the crispiest, most decadent example of a potato chip I’ve ever tasted. As with each preceding course, the components were delicious on their own, but they reached their peaks when combined as a cohesive whole.
Sauteed Veal Sweetbreads–”Chou-Fleur a la Grenobloise.” Okay, I have no idea what that French gobbledy-gook means. All I know is that I gobbled up these sweetbreads. It was funny, actually–there was a choice for this course, either sweetbreads or Pekin duck. As a couple, Jeanette and David’s strategy was, wherever there was a choice within a course, they ordered one of each. Jason and I, on the other hand, ordered what we pleased (meaning that neither of us ate the foie and both of us opted for sweetbreads). We were given endless shit about how that wasn’t enabling us to try as many things, we were missing out, blah blah blah. But when this course arrived, there was no question that the sweetbreads were the superior choice. And Jason and I each had our own portion. Hey, I learned to share in kindergarten, but all bets are off when it comes to thymus glands.
“Navarin d’Agneu”–Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib-Eye with French Laundry Garden Vegetables. I am not normally a huge lamb fan (I’ll eat it, but I rarely make a point of ordering it), but this dish was the pinnacle of lamb deliciousness. There were two thick, perfectly cooked (rare to medium rare) slices of meat, accompanied only by their own jus and some colorful, adorable baby vegetables. This course represented, for me, the height of culinary excellence–no frills, no foams, no fancy-shmancy distractions. Just meat, cooked properly, with vegetables. Never underestimate the power of the basics.
“Zamorano”–Globe Artichokes, Iberico Ham Croquette, Black Truffle and Mache. This was the cheese course, and I was so very thrilled that we weren’t presented with something from the blue family. Instead, we were served a delicious Spanish cheese–it had more bite than a manchego but not as much funkiness as cabrales. I guess it reminded me most of an idiazabal. In any case, yum! The cheese paired beautifully with the artichokes and the ham croquette (which was delicate yet powerful in flavor). And my mushroom-hating fiance even tried the truffle and declared it “not bad.”
I believe at this point, we were presented with the second bread service. This time, there was crusty white bread and a couple of different types of sweet slices (with dried fruit and nuts). I opted for the plain, and I only took a few bites because I was really starting to feel full, but everyone seemed to enjoy their selections.
Andante Dairy Yogurt Sorbet–Cream Scone, Sour Cherry and Black Tea Foam. This was technically the palatte cleanser, but it was like an extra dessert. The sorbet was perfectly creamy and had an amazing yogurty tang, and the sour cherry was the perfect accompaniment.
“Mousse au Chocolat Amedei”–Toasted Cashews, Curry “Arlette” and Gros Michel Banana Ice Cream. Originally, I did not order this dessert, instead opting for the citrus parfait. However, Jason and I switched after a few bites and decided we liked each other’s better than our own. This dish was the definition of decadent–rich chocolate mousse, thick banana ice cream, and some wonderful nuttiness from the cashews and the little curry cookie. Even though I was pretty darn full at this point, I was quite tempted to lick the plate.
Mignardises–While I knew that little candies would be part of the end-of-meal service, I had no idea that we were basically in store for two more desserts. First, the server came around with a beautiful silver container full of homemade sweets like meringues, salted caramels, nougatines, pates de fruits, and caramelized macadamia nuts dusted with powdered chocolate. Everything was just wonderful, but the table seemed particularly fond of the macadamia nuts. THEN, the server appeared with a huge tray of homemade truffles–in SIX different flavors (salted caramel, lime, white chocolate yogurt, peanut butter, praline, and one more that I simply don’t remember). My sister asked how many she could take, and the server said, “As many as you want!” Music to our ears. Not surprisingly, the truffles were absolutely fabulous–my personal favorite was the white chocolate yogurt, though the lime and salted caramel were also superb.
Throughout the evening, the service was formal, but somehow it felt accessible and friendly rather than stiff and stuffy. We were dining for approximately four hours, but it didn’t seem overly drawn out or like there was too much pomp and circumstance. The staff took great care of us (our server even took David and Jeanette into the kitchen and chatted with them for a while after the meal), but I didn’t get that sense of fakeness and butt-smooching that I’ve felt at some other restaurants. Just like the food, the service was simultaneously intricate and straightforward.
As we drove away from The French Laundry, full of food and good cheer, it was hard to believe that such a “bucket list” experience had come and gone. Thankfully, everything about the night will remain in my fondest of memories. I may never again visit Chef Keller’s flagship restaurant, but I feel lucky to have had one singularly perfect meal at what seemed, strangely, yet somehow unexpectedly, like his home.
